The Real Story of Seoul

Rahul Prabhakar wrote this
guest post on behalf of MNUI, a travel insurance company.

Five years ago, I transcended the physical boundaries to call Seoul as my second       home. Little did I realize that I was slowly embarking on a beautiful journey of self-discovery. For the outside world, Seoul might present itself as a sprawling yet unique metropolis — home to over 10 million people — and undeniably, Korea’s major economic, political, and cultural hub. However, for me, Seoul means all this and much more.

Like most expatriates who come to Seoul as first-time visitors, I was also awestruck by the beauty of this iconic city and the kindness of its inhabitants in particular. Very few would’ve imagined that the modern-day Seoul, as we all see today, was at the verge of destruction during the Korean War. If you thought the resurgence of this city is symbolic in any way, chances are you might just be correct.

The real story of Seoul is not hidden in the tall skyscrapers or the ancient temples that encircle the urban center, but in a few important landmarks that are both historically significant and symbolic at the same time. Take Jongno street for instance. Better known as the “Bell Street,” Jogno is famous for Bosingak, which is a marquee with a large bell. It is said the bell signals different times of a day and controls the four main gates to the city. The bell is usually rung thirty-three times at the midnight on New Year’s Eve. However, when former president Kim Dae-jung took office in 1998, the bell was rung in the midst of an intense economic crisis that had hit the country. Every Korean worth his salt knows that Kim opened a new chapter of economic transparency and played an even greater role of steering the country on the world map by hosting international events such as the 2002 FIFA World Cup. The melancholic yet inspiring sound of the bell has definitely struck a chord with millions of locals and expats living in or across Seoul.

Also, somewhere in the heart of Seoul lies a mystic mountain called Namsan. On the top of this mountain, a tower has been resurrected so that onlookers can view the complete city on a clear day. Close on the heels of the Seoul Tower flows the Han River, which has seen the city go through several ups than downs for over 2000 years.

Any reference to Seoul would’ve remained incomplete without the mention of its diversified cultural heritage and treasures. As you’d probably know, most original Korean artifacts were either destroyed or burnt down by the Japanese and the Chinese. Few that remained survive to tell the tale of Korea’s long-lost and stark history.

Sungnyemun or “the Gate of Exalted Ceremonies,” which was built by the King Taejo during the Chosun Dynasty stood tall (until last year that is) as the front gate of the capital. The locals still refer to it fondly as the symbol of Seoul. Just imagine how distressing they must’ve felt to see it burn in front of their eyes. However, people of Seoul are characterized by a strong sense of strength and hope. I can probably quote several instances from the history books, where “Seoulites” have stuck together and shown restraint even in adversity — be it the hostage incident with the Taliban militants, the oil spill mishap in Taean, or the collapse of Sungnyemun – all are all living testimony to their spirit for life.

Walk down the nearby alley, and you’ll find in the hustle and bustle of Namdaemun market — a traditional 24-hour market — that the hallmark of Seoul remains in tact.

Seoul is also a popular financial and commercial destination for some of the most prolific conglomerates the world has ever seen such as Samsung (my present employer), LG, KIA Motors, and Hyundai. Some locals call it a “Miracle on the Han River,” but clearly the fifth largest city in the world has more to offer –be it a free concert at the Namsangol Hanok Village or a cable car ride up to the North Seoul Tower, be it a peaceful protest at the City Hall or a field trip to the DMZ, there are plenty of things to do for everyone.

Finally, Seoul might seem intimidating at first sight, but it is truly a place to grow. The city is reminiscent of an unimaginably rich culture, mirroring ancient and western values. If you’re as passionate as I’m about living or traveling in Seoul, I urge you to come, explore, and enjoy Seoul – the soul of Korea.

Questions about My Time in Busan

As I wrap up my stay in Busan, I’ll answer questions that people tend to ask me about teaching in South Korea and in Busan.

Q: Do I like Busan?
A: Yes. I really do like Busan. I like Seoul, too, but I’m not sure which I like more. I like them both for different reasons. I wish that I could transfer the openess to foreigners in Seoul and place it in Busan. I’m not saying that people in Busan are not open to foreigners, rather, I’m saying that maybe since Seoul is a larger city, they are more used to seeing foreigners. When I’m in Haeundae (near the beach) I feel a bit more comfortable because Koreans there are used to having tourists in the area.

Q: Did I like my school?
A: I loved the kids. I always say that, but I love teaching elementary school kids and the children at Choryang School were for the most part willing to learn. All children are not perfect. Yes. There are children in South Korea with special needs. I had one child with special needs, but I didn’t know which area. One of the teachers suggested that he might have ADHD. I also had days when students wanted to play or didn’t want to listen. However, incentives when a long way in teaching in South Korea. A good point system with rewards works magic!

Q: Did I like the food? Do I like Kimchi?
A: When I first came to Busan, I ate mostly Korean food. I began to slowly eat more and more Western food because I began to crave food that I was accustomed to. I like a few Korean foods, but I find the food a bit too spicy for my taste. I discovered that I like Kimchi that’s made using radishes.

Q: What was my biggest challenge?
A: It was extremely difficult working with administrators who do not speak my native language. Actually, the problem was that when I needed something or had a problem, I couldn’t express myself to my administrators. This was a problem when my Korean liason (co-teacher) didn’t want to translate for me or simply disagreed with me.

Q: What are you doing next?
A: I’m going back to the U.S., but this blog will still be updated! I still have tons of information to share, and a guest blogger will also contribute!

Chilling on My Summer Vacation in Busan

One of the good things about the English Program in South Korea, EPIK is that you usually get more days off than working for a private school. University teachers get several weeks off, but they advertise that you must have a master’s degree to land one of those jobs. I’m using my time to see things in Busan that I haven’t checked out before. I’m blogging and packing, too!

10 Reasons to Visit and Live in South Korea

After  a year of teaching and working in Busan, I will be leaving South Korea in about a month, more or less.  The departing will be bittersweet, because although I’m excited about being in my homeland, I’ll definitely miss Korea.  In fact, while I am away, I’m making arrangements in the U.S. to travel more extensively, perhaps living in Asia for at least another year.

With all of the cultural differences and challenges associated with traveling and living in a foreign country so many of you have asked me is it worth it? I have to say that the experience of being totally immersed in a different culture, learning a new way of life, and seeing a remarkably beautiful country has made the visit totally worth it.  Through it all, I know that I have a keener insight when it comes to cultural sensitivity. I know how difficult it is to pick up your life and live within a different culture. More importantly, I have a new sense of independence. My grandfather says that if you can make it in New York, you can make it anywhere. I say, that if you can travel and live abroad, you can make it anywhere.

The world is a big place, and some of you are probably wondering what’s so special about South Korea. Why would I want to return here? Why do I find it so hard to leave, even for a short amount of time? Travel, for each person, is highly individual. No two people will have the same experience, but I’ll share through a combination of narrative, video,  and pictures why I’ll definitely be back in South Korea.  Anyway, here are my top 10 reasons…

choryang

Choryang in Busan, South Korea

1. Friendly Neighborhoods

It was a joy to walk the streets at all hours, feeling safe and secure in the neighborhoods in Busan. I’d often see young children in the streets coming home from school after 10 p.m. Sometimes children as young as five were in the local corner store alone. It was just that safe.

Children at the elementary school.

2. Awesome Kids

I loved teaching the students at the elementary school. As a teacher, I have never before experienced the level of respect from children as I’ve experienced in South Korea.

entertainment

A B-boy and a Ballerina, a dance production

3. Live Performances

Experiencing live shows and cultural performances in Asia is worth the trip. If you have the opportunity to visit, see as many shows as you can.

Phi Phi in Thailand

4. Proximity to Thailand

I love Thailand! I love the crystal, blue waters. I love the soft sand on the beaches! I love the friendly people. I love the delicious food, especially the seafood. I don’t know if I’d love the rainy season, so I’d just like to live close and visit. Oh, and the mosquitoes during the rainy season are not so nice.

Coast of South Korea

5. The Beautiful Coast

I was lucky enough to live near the beautiful coast in South Korea. Therefore, I experienced milder weather than the weather in Seoul. Also, I was relatively close to Taejongdae park where this picture was taken.

Snow in Busan

6. Snow in Busan

I was told that it doesn’t snow in Busan, South Korea. It did snow while I was there, and it looked like a beautiful winter wonderland. It was just enough snow, to make the entire city look amazing, but it didn’t disrupt our lives. We all wanted to play in the snow.

Landscape in Jeonju

7.City Life in Busan

I thought that I lived in the city until I lived in Busan. I’m from Miami and have lived in the Atlana area. I also spent some time in New York.  I love the city life. I love being surrounded by skyscrapers, and I love seeing people on the street at all hours. A big plus is living in a big city and feeling a sense of safety. I never heard about any shootings while in South Korea. Now, isn’t that something!

Lotte Giants Game

8. Lotte Giants: Best Baseball Games Ever

To sit in a stadium where everyone cheers for one team is an amazing experience. To sit in a stadium where everyone puts a plastic orange trash bag on their heads and cheers is hilarious and amazing at the same time. I was told that wearing the bags is a tradition in Busan. It certainly adds color to the stadium. After the game, everyone puts their trash in the bags. Isn’t that neat!


Korean women in traditional dress
9. Kind People

I’ve met some extremely kind people in South Korea. People have helped me lift my heavy luggage onto escalators without being asked.  They have helped me find my way when I simply looked lost. They helped me by taking me where I wanted to go, not merely showing me. Once, I ended up in the wrong orphanage to volunteer. The workers were baffled to see me there, and when we figured out what happened, two orphan teens were instructed to walk me to the correct place (which was not that close). People on the street offer me coffee while they are socializing with their friends. People waiting on the subway offer whatever food they are eating. One Korean woman even stooped down and tied my shoe lace. Another lady fed me while I cried over the loss of my grandmother. She literally fed me with chopsticks.

Spa Land

10. Spa Land

Spa land is one of my most favorite places on earth. I could spend hours relaxing in this spa located in Centum City in Busan. In fact, I have spent many hours there, and I hope to spend as much time as possible relaxing at the spa before I leave for the U.S. For less than $13 I could experience pure relaxation in the most beautiful surroundings that you can imagine. I suspect that if  Spa Land happened to be in the U.S. I would pay hundreds of dollars for the experience.

Sorority and Fraternity Jackets in South Korea

Sigma Gamma Rho Jacket

Sigma Gamma Rho,Delta Sigma Theta and Alpha Phi Alpha jackets at MJ's.

Okay, all! I went to Osan in South Korea, last weekend, on July 18, 2010 for a shopping trip. I was on the subway for I don’t know how long, because I kept getting on the wrong train. That’s mostly because I asked Korean people where to take the train, and they kept directing me to the wrong track. And that’s because they didn’t understand me! I was very clear when I told them that I wanted to go to Songtan. Someone thought I said Suwon, and someone else thought that I said Song-je-yong or something like that. Anyway, since the paraphernalia shop is near the Airforce base, I was using my arms as wings and making airplane sounds. That was comical, and one lady understood, but she still had me on the wrong train. Finally, I pointed to the stop on the map in the train (DUH) and the other passengers, who insisted that I was going to Song-je-yong or whatever that stop was called, said “OH, Song-tan!!” and this guy from Pakistan took me to right track. His stop was the one before mine, so why didn’t he understand what I was saying, I don’t know.

So, when I made it to the shopping area, I had to remember how to get to MJs. Thank God there are plenty of English-speaking folk there due to the base. I asked only two people and the second young lady knew and directed me. I made it to MJs, and I have additional photos and contact information for you all. Sorry, I can’t take orders, but you can e-mail MJ’s. I was told to ask you all to e-mail MJ or Mr. Oh with your request and phone number, and they will get back with you. The jackets are custom-made, and they measure you in the shop, but I guess that they can work something out with people. I’m just passing the info along. People who are Greek and near this Airforce base in Osan, know about the place and go to the shop and place their orders. I can tell you that English is not the first language for the shop owners! They are Korean, and they learned about our organizations for their business.

The e-mail is tkk3769@hanmail.net

Oh, and on my way home, when I made it back to my train station near my home, I saw one of my Korean friends in the station. She asked me why didn’t I take her! She knew which stop I was trying to get to, because she’s very familiar with the area. She said that it could be confusing, but she understand Songtan, perfectly. She told me before that sometimes Korean people don’t listen or understand English well, and they act like that do. I agree with that! The easiest way to get somewhere in Korea is to get the address in Korean, and take a taxi if you can afford it! It’s cheaper and probably more fun to take the train, though.

Yes! I am a member of Sigma Gamma Rho Sorority, Inc.

Saying Goodbye

Yes. I’m leaving Korea in about a month, but I’m not sure when. I have some possibilities. Anyway, I’ve been having a BALL traveling outside of Busan. I’m really sad to leave South Korea and some of the awesome people that I’ve met. I do hope to return, but for now, I’m frustrated with the language barrier and the cultural differences in working in a Korean school. Remember, I always say that every situation is different, and really a lot depends on your co-workers and administration at your school. In Korean schools, your co-workers can change rather quickly (they move from school to school every few years). Therefore, your situation can change. In EPIK, the contract can really leave you open to some frustration! I promise to write more about this at a later time, because there are some things that you really should consider if you plan on teaching in South Korea through EPIK.

I do want to say this: Foreign teachers in EPIK are sometimes paid more than Korean teachers. Some Korean teachers are not too keen on working with foreign teachers due to their own insecurities. Yes. They can make things difficult or at least, not as fun! When I first came here, I had an easy stress-free experience. Now, not so much. I’ve even been taking work home! I recently turned in three weeks worth of lesson plans for summer camp, and I needed to have worksheets for each lesson (not just the plans). I used EdHelper, and it helped immensely.  There is a fee to use the site, but it’s totally worth it.

My summer camp  classes are two hours long, and I am accustomed to 40-minute classes. So, it’s a little challenging for me to make plans to keep the kiddies engaged for that long.  Yes. I did have restrictions on what I could do in the class, so it’s not what I would have done if I had control. As a teacher, I’ve completed unit plans (which could be three weeks of plans). If I didn’t have that experience, I would probably have been more worried.

If you can recall, when I first arrived here in August 2009, I didn’t have to turn in plans at all. I worked from my Korean co-teachers’ plans. I’ll write more about planning lessons in another post, though. I really wanted to say, that this week has been full of goodbyes to my students, and I will miss them terribly. Here is a  Saying Goodbye video that I created of my goodbye to them.

Omega Psi Phi Boat Ride in Seoul South Korea

I am going on the boat ride in Seoul this weekend. Anyway, I thought that I’d tell you more about the boat ride. It’s really a day cruise. We will be cruising on the Han river in Seoul on a ship. I don’t really know the size of the ship, but I’ve heard that it’s nice. It’s a party cruise. From what I understand, there will be a couple of levels on the ship with different music playing, everything form hip hop to old skool. There will also be a ton of food (I hope). The dress is casual, but the ladies are dressing cute and sexy. The cruise is five hours long and then there is an after party at the club on the military base. There’s a 3 a.m. curfew for military folk in South Korea, so I guess that’s when the party will end. This is a Greek party with Greeks from the Divine Nine representing. Of course, I am a Sigma Gamma Rho.

Turmoil in South Korea

You probably would think that seeing porn in a staff meeting at work was enough craziness for the time being. Don’t worry. There’s more to come. Oh, and beware, I tend to use the word crazy, a lot especially when it fits the situation.

Soooooo here goes….

I have been traveling to the army base North of me, no it’s not in Seoul. It’s in Pyeongtaek. There’s an army base in Pyeongtaek, and an airforce base in Osan. Both areas are really cool, because Westerners can get a piece of home in the cities there. For example, you are more likely to find clothes to fit, Western food (a real Amercian breakfast with pancakes and the works) and ladies, the Dooney’s, Louie’s and Gucci’s are there, too. Yeah, the ones that you read about. I went to a couple of shops. I haven’t bought anything yet, but I will. I’m going to try to see if I can take pics. I love shopping in the area. The people in the stores speak English and there are tons of military people there, so communication is a breeze.

So now, here’s the turmoil. If you are in South Korea and you are affiliated with any of the Divine Nine Greek Organizations, you know that there’s a big boat trip this weekend.

There has also been tension between friends who are reacting to said craziness, but are also all up in my Kool Aid when I have asked them to chill. Wow! Facebook is playing a small part in this. I’m taking a break from that madness and have blocked visibility to my personal page. The Korea-Diva fan page is open, though. So, that’s why I may or may not be going to Seoul this wekend. A fun trip (and the dude just bought an outfit for me to wear to it) may turn out to be an ordeal. I had been looking forward to the trip for months, but I am really thinking of not going.

I’m annoyed, because I’ve been in the middle of a lot of high school he-say, she-say stuff. I don’t think that I’ve been in the middle of so much gossip before, even in high school! I stayed out of mess in high school, and here I am a grown-behind woman turning around the corner into my 40s soon, yet I’m involved in mess.

Here’s a link to the Korea-Diva Fan Page!

Porn at School Staff Meeting

I was in the teacher’s room, trying to memorize my lines for our open class tomorrow. My co-teacher gave me a script to memorize and she was serious about me learning my lines. Other teachers and the principal and vice principal from our school will come to a particular class (we know which class) and observe the lesson, putting my co-teacher in the hot seat because it’s her observation. Anyway, I doubt that you want to read about our open class, but you are probably more interested in the porn discussed at the staff meeting today. Yeah, so, I was in the teachers’ room when my co-teacher tells me that we have a staff meeting right now! Hurry. She forgot to tell me. I grabbed my paperwork. I went off to the usual meeting room, which is just another classroom.

All of the teachers were there already. Even my co-teacher was seated. Someone grabbed a chair for me, and I went back to memorizing the script. The meetings are all in Korean, and my co-teacher has a tough time translating anything to me. I suppose that since the meetings rarely have anything to do with me, she doesn’t bother to translate, and I usually don’t ask. If there is something that she feels that I should know, she writes it on a post-it note. However, I really do want to know what’s going on! I just like to know what’s going on around me.

In this meeting, a prim presenter, a woman in a nice conservative skirt-suit was talking to the group. I glanced at the screen where her PowerPoint presentation was up and running. There was an artsy painting of a naked woman and a man at her breast. “That’s interesting,” I thought. “I guess that we are talking about modern art or something.” I went back to my script.

The lady talks more and shows various slides, all sexual in nature. There was picture of a man with his male member sticking out of his shorts. There was a photo of someone’s pants showing a bare bottom. The other teachers snickered. There was a photo of a man with a head shaped like a penis. There was another photo of a man flashing a group of people, but you could only see his opened jacket.There was a cartoon of a child with an erection as he looked at a computer. Hmmmm. I frowned, gasped, and looked at my co-teacher and tried to speak. There was this montage of at least 16 pictures (probably more, they were in little boxes on one slide) and the pictures were of couples in various pornographic sexual positions. They showed everything. There were couples Asian and I think American, but I didn’t want to stare, so I looked back down at the paper. I can say that nothing was blocked out and the pictures were straight, raunchy, porn with people having sex. They were XXX pictures that you must be at least 18 to view. Some grown people probably haven’t even seen pictures like those.

I think that I mumbled something like OMG! That’s when I saw that my co-teacher had a blank look on her face, and I felt that I definitely had to play it cool. Ms. Presenter was still rambling on in Korean and flipping through the photos. There was some random snickering, but otherwise the other teachers didn’t look like anything out of the ordinary was happening. They were looking interested at the screen, the same as if they were watching a presentation on teaching technology or something. Now, I wasn’t shocked they had liquor at work in the school gym or during a little social gathering (they cooked Korean pancakes and I ate) in the early afternoon in our normal meeting room. I thought it was funny last term when we went on a staff sightseeing/hiking trip during the day, and they had more liquor during lunch in a restaurant off campus.

This staff meeting with the porn shocked me. I asked my co-teacher what the meeting was about at the end of the day. She said that she didn’t know the English word for it, but eventually she said that it was to prevent children from watching that. Oh. Okay. She said that she was shocked, too. She didn’t look shocked. I know I did, because my mouth was wide open and I kept reading my script, but was having difficulty focusing. Anyway, another day in South Korea.

Maybe next week we will learn about the dangers of doing drugs, and they’ll pass out samples. No Thank you! Oh, and right after the meeting, my co-teacher told me that I will not join her for the observation. She is going to do it herself.

Watch Our Show!

I’ll be live on a webcast broadcast! Tune in to http://koreabridge.net/live to watch and listen group of ladies talk about life in Korea at 9 p.m. on Sunday, May 2nd. Dating, Korean plastic surgery, and my trip to the orphanage may be some hot topics on the show!